Why does a weeping willow supposedly weep

I know that the yellow branches compare favorably with 'Niobe', the summer foliage is superior, but what about the form? All the photos I've seen of the Prairie Cascade show pendulous branches, not strongly weeping ones.

Even your photos show branches that do not sweep the ground. Golden weeping willow, Niobe willow willow is Salix x sepulcralis 'Chrysocoma'. Its synonyms include. On suitable sites it becomes a large tree - more than 60' tall and wide - producing curtains of drooping metallic yellow stems.

Huge dimensions have been claimed for specimens in Michigan. The Prairie Cascade does not weep until it is a few years old, and then its luxuriant growth weighs down the thick branches so it hangs. So far mine wants to shoot up high and straight but some branches are hanging due to weight. The form is more pleasing, more perky, far more robust. This is a full lively tree with beautiful leaves, branches, trunk, colors, and form.

My Prairie Cascades will not be a good example of eventual form because I'll have to prune them and shape them to fit this overcrowded swamp arboretum. They do take well to pruning. They are healthier by far than the Salix babylonica green weeping willow or curly or any of the varieties in my swamp except the smithianas.

The Prairie Cascades seem to get thick strong branches fast, bright golden in winter. None of mine have had any brittleness or breaking branches. No mess at all except the giant willow aphids in August which have to be hosed off easy elimination. And that plague supposedly only lasts the 1st 3 years on young trees. For 2 acres around a pond I'd plant at least 3 Prairie Cascades and varieties of other willows violet is gorgeous and any dawn redwoods and bald cypress that are hardy enough for your area.

Variety is wonderful. Willows shade baby evergreens so they can grow from babyhood without getting scorched by the sun and drying out and shriveling in hot dry weather. In winter when all the deciduous leaves have dropped, a liberal planting of rich evergreens brings a person happily through the winter without the bleakness of a mostly deciduous landscape.

With 2 acres I'd be thrilled to plant trees with pronounced winter interest also. It's fun to plant trees and shrubs that birds like; makes working and sitting in and staring at the land very enjoyable and entertaining. Birds like wild sweet cherry trees and lots of water and cover.

The birds here roost in the Prairie Cascades. Very popular tree! Oaks are magnificent trees that are friendly to wildlife and an awesome investment to plant. If I could do it all over again I'd definitely plan my yard and install a timed excellent comprehensive irrigation system first. Still in the firstyears establishment period so this will lessen but there's always droughts and an irrigation system is such a wise necessary investment.

So, if the Prairie Cascades Willow will eventually match that gracefull appearance over a few years, then I'll be happy. Does anyone know where I can find a photo of a mature Prairie Cascades Willow on the internet? Oh, they'll weep for sure, with a few years. The leaves are so huge and glossy, lustrous, those golden branches can't stay upright.

They were dead desiccated little sticks when planted. They like a lot of water, more than the curly or babylonica. You can't go wrong with this tree unless you put it in a dry place.

The best picture of a mature one came with the tag on my dead little stick from the nursery. It is a grand broad thick weeping graceful robust tree.

Mine are getting quite a bit of shade and tolerate shade better than the other willows also. I'll be pruning the other willows back strongly this winter and making air room for the Prairie Cascades to shine dominant. These trees are spectacular. Of course also plant Niobes. Then in a few years come back to this thread and tell us with pictures which you like best.

I am curious if anyone has had septic system problems with the tree. I recently planted a 10' Prairie Cascade Willow and it is approximately 25' from the far end of my furthest lateral line Indem Sie weiterhin auf der Website surfen bzw.

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Holiday Lighting. Gift Cards. Size and growth rate of Salix 'prairie cascade'? Email Save Comment Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. Still, not a tree for small yards or anywhere near septic lines. Like Save. Related Discussions What to put in these planters?

I like kaveac idea and I live in Toronto. Hostas are perfect height for your planters and they survive practically in any conditions even in dead dry soil, but grow slow. I have them also in planters, they survive winter. Some leafs can burn though if there too much midday sun, other than that you shouldn't have any troubles with them.

There huge variety and you can create a "persian rug" mixing them. As on the ground level you have mixed variety of perennials usually short lasting bloom my choice would be medium height annual flowers, they have long lasting bloom and color scheme could be changed every year, more work though.

Whatever you chose to plant hostas or annuals go monocolor or close to it orange-yellow, blue-purple to make a statement. Rocks are small and next year, perhaps, they will be lost between plants.

I would suggest "freestyle" groupping under the tree far left hand side and plant some ground creeping plant in front of them. Evergreens for me is a must have, as house looks bare in winter, and I believe on other side you have them.

It would look more interesting if not lined up, unless they should cover something. Just a thought, if plants are young better to re-plant them groupping 5 arched tip toward house's right corner ; 3- triangle could be in flower bed where one stone now. General idea --groupping and planting here and there, avoiding formal look. However, the response of your specigfic tree and indeed any tree depends on HOW they are cut.

Any tree will usually respond to a severe cutting by sending out very vigorous and multiple new grown in a very straight path, but given that the tree is predesitined to weep then it will, eventually start to weep again. If this was a tree in my garden and I wished to keep it, I'd arrange for very selective pruning of individual branches over a 3 year period. That way you'll get a more controlled regrowth and only have to take out the growth that affects your view.

And as for basketry. Baskets can be made of anything including grasses an dried twigs from any species of plant. The willows usually used for basketry is the Osier willows rather than Salix Babylonica. Farm1 wrote: "perrancott" wrote in message I asked this question yesterday and the responses, while interesting, were not answers to my question so I will repeat it.. Yes I know response is voluntary but I did expect it to answer the question and not be a rant. Anyway thank you for your reply.

I have decided to have it cut down and removed completely. An Oasis wrote: perrancott Wrote: I asked this question yesterday and the responses, while interesting, were not answers to my question so I will repeat it.. Depends upon how well you cut it down! Use a stump grinder to do the job properly. If you don't cut it down properly then yes the plant will reshoot, as to the type of branch produced, you don't say whether the plant has been grafted or not so it's impossible to tell.

I did not plant it and do not know who did. Thanks for an on-topic reply. Basia Kulesz. Uzytkownik "perrancott" napisal w wiadomosci ups. Is this Salix alba? Where I live, this willow is a very well-known landscape element, since all the branches are cut down every few years supposedly for fuel or forage - opinions differ.

Whether it is beautiful is of course a matter of taste Both Salix alba and Salix babylonica respond quite well to very severe pruning. Ah, yes, the new shoots will grow straight for one or two years. When they become longer, they assume the weeping habit Regards, Barbara. Dear me, how extreme for a reply that was helpful not just to YOU but to the entire group. Maybe Bill Valavanis will see this and post a photo A club member here has one, cultivar "Rokkakudo" which is supposedly good for bonsai.

I have 3 rooted cuttings developing in the ground. At this point I have no experience growing them in containers, or training with wire, etc The trees are very vigorous and will need to be fairly large bonsai given the leaf size and spacing. I'm looking forward to getting one potted in a year or two I spent some time talking to Marcus Watts at Noelanders.

He claimed key to survival is enough water, to the extend of putting the pot in a tray filled with water. Maybe a colander would help the root die back problem? Haven't seen any in colanders. Watering was never an issue for me, then again I had a small small one! I tossed it when I found all the roots I cut back died and it grew new ones.

AJL Chumono. Aren't willows the genus that was sometimes grown in a "root washing" style to help carry them through the heat of summer? Don't remember where I read it but perhaps someone else could refresh my memory on this. GrimLore Bonsai Nut alumnus The first sentence in this article sums it up well - They thrive on water Hi here are some photos of my willows- ok they arent strictly weeping because most willow species dont weep!

All were grown from hardwood cuttings and are easy to propagate and most dont really need too much water except for Salix matsudana Tortuosa- Peking twisted willow. I'd value your thoughts and comments!! AJL said:. Here goes again! View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment View attachment William N.

Valavanis Chumono. He originally "stole" a cutting from one of my bonsai several decades ago. I did not care, but it makes a good story.